KA-BANG! KA-BANG!
The sound of what could have been thunder from an impending storm startled me awake in the early morning hours at the villa of Di Colle in Colle. I was still jet lagged from landing the day prior, and clearly still didn't have my full wits about me 12 hours in. The journey had been long & winding (literally, we rounded about 20 turns to get up the hillside to the villa, ha!), and rest would be key for the wine adventure the group & I were about to embark on. I stumbled my way from the comfort of my bed and to the front door of my apartment for the week. I pulled back the curtain to see if there were any looming clouds to confirm that we were going to get some wet weather that day, but saw nothing but clear skies. In confusion, I stepped outside the apartment to peer over at the multitude of rolling vineyards & forests around me. They were so close yet so distant at the same time.
KA-BANG!
The thunderous noise went off again. This time I wasn't startled though. A light bulb had gone off in my head instead. I used what context clues I had regarding the region of Umbria to make a connection that our host & winemaker, Giulio, confirmed later that day. There are two things that get hunted this time of the year in central Italy: truffles & wild boar. I smirked to myself as that moment served as a sign that this trip would put my knowledge into practice in ways I only ever dreamed of.
Except now, I was no longer dreaming, but living.
THE PATH LESS TRAVELED, SAVORED & SIPPED
It was just as important to me to support small businesses during my retreat as it is here stateside. In doing so, a heartfelt tale of connecting generations & preserving family history became the theme of the entire trip. The wineries that my colleagues Lizzy Arthur and Lucia de Ferrari vetted for me held this theme in mind. Many of these wineries produce less than 1,000 cases (some only 500 bottles!) using ancient techniques or schools of thought when it comes to winemaking. Each held family at the core of their respective operations. This allowed for a deeper, more intimate connection during our daily tasting experiences. Travelers wouldn't normally have these wineries on their radar while in the areas of Tuscany & Umbria. It perpetuated another notion of 'the road less traveled' whilst exploring Italy. While I knew all 5 wineries slotted would be impactful enhancements for the guest experience for those very reasons, I hadn't realized just how important one of them would be in the grand scheme of things.
Di Colle in Colle, a winery & villa estate, is hidden within the hills of Umbria and overlooking Trasimeno Lake. The family estate is run by brothers Giulio and Diego, with Giulio taking over the primary function of winemaker & general manager of the various on-site operations. Waking up in the morning to pastries and much needed coffee with their mother and finishing the evening with wine dinners with Giulio was...chef's kiss perfection. This narrative connection between wine, food & culture was palpable every time we stepped foot on the villa grounds. As the duo beautifully put it: "Our dream is to elevate the ancestral agricultural roots of our land so they can shine and gain international recognition." A tale of excellence is being spun from Di Colle in Colle to the rest of the world, and served as my gateway into the rapidly growing scene of Agritourism in Umbria.
Agritourism is HUGE all over Italy, but areas like Tuscany have been seen as the crown jewel when it comes to this type of travel experience. Agritourism can be explained as an intersection between agricultural production & tourism with the goals of educating visitors, supporting the local ecosystem of businesses in a region, and create long term viability for those businesses. It often overlaps with gastronomy and, you guessed it, wine tourism! Umbria has been lauded as "the next Tuscany" for this type of tourism. Travelers who have found the towns & surrounding countryside of Tuscany to be a bit too popular will discover similar attractions such as medieval hill towns, wineries and architectural marvels in its less touristy neighbor to the southeast. There was this sense of quiet serenity that I feel elevates Umbria in very different ways to Tuscany. Its not meant to be the next Tuscany, rather, Umbria should be viewed as a wholly unique experience of its own.
EXPLORING THE WINES
While there was plenty of magic in simply waking up in Umbria each day, you already know what I was really there for-----THE JUICE. It was a wine retreat after all, ha! The estate of Di Colle in Colle resides in the DOC of Colli del Trasimeno. For further context, this is a recently approved area of production within Umbria established in 1972. However, its winemaking is quite ancient in origin thanks to the Etruscans who noted early on that the land was ripe for cultivating vines. The area receives favorable benefits (and protection, really) from the large Trasimeno lake, rolling hills for days on par with Tuscany, and rich clay-limestone soils. Usual suspects like Grechetto & Sangiovese are in rotation for the white & red wines respectively, but unique varieties such as Gamay di Trasimeno (synonym for Grenache) & Welschriesling were also uncovered during my trip.
"Trasimeno Gamay has no relation to the Gamay of Beaujolais, rather, it has a stronger relation to one of the leading grapes of the Rhone Valley: Grenache. Other synonyms for Grenache exist in Italy such as Cannonau of Sardinia & Tai Rosso of Veneto. Trasimeno Gamay is a light to medium bodied red full of soft red fruits & alluring scents of orange peel, perfect with a slight chill. Check out La Querciolana 'Camporso' Gamay Passito!" - THE CERTIFIED WINO
I tasted through the range of wines produced by winemaker Giulio during our first dinner at the villa. He walked us through the history of this particular winemaking area and regaled us with touching stories that inspire his wines. The juice from Di Colle in Colle was arguably the group's favorite, but I believe a lot of that had to do with the fact that we had just spent a very intimate week with the winemaker & his family. It reminded me that sometimes the experience surrounding a bottle of wine is often far more important to the consumer than the juice inside. Though I would be remise if I didn't admit that these wines have had me dreaming about them since we left! All of Giulio's wines highlighted grapes I was familiar with, but was seeing in a more rustic light than I ever had before.
Obviously, the wine nerd in me was more than intrigued having now experienced Di Colle in Colle's wines for myself. I couldn't leave this trip without getting to see the vineyard conditions & make visual connections between it and the resulting wines we tasted. Giulio, ever the gracious host, allowed me to walk with him through his vineyards after we returned from one of our last town tours. As I hobbled behind him through the vineyards he spoke about the challenges of this year's growing season. "It has been a really wet vintage.", he remarked while casually picking at a few berries that had been left on the vines post-harvest for me to taste. "Excess moisture has always been a challenge due to our proximity to the lake, but the heavy rainfall this year made me concerned." Grapes, when they retain too much water, will end up producing wines with a flabby acidity that makes them feel diluted on the palate. In addition, this makes the grapes more susceptible to moisture related diseases that can in turn cause poor yields. Despite those concerns, Giulio had done his due diligence in selecting what grapes made it into the final stage of production, so I'm certain this upcoming vintage will be just fine. The vineyards are situated at over 500 meters above sea level. The grapes benefit greatly from huge swings in temperature that allow for concentration in character as well as constant winds that help strengthen the grape skins. The care taken with each vineyard plot is masterfully conveyed in the final wines.
A WINO's TASTING NOTES
Di Colle in Colle 'Agilla' - 100% Pinot Noir sparkling rosé made in the same traditional method as Champagne (a requirement in this region) & Giulio only makes this wine during the best years---under 1000 bottles typically when he does! The name is derived from the tale of a beautiful Nymph searching for her lost lover who's tears created the Trasimeno Lake. Much like the ethereal creature it's named after, this sparkling wine was hauntingly delicious from start to finish with the most gorgeous texture/mouthfeel I've experienced in recent memory.
Di Colle in Colle 'Occidens' - This Chardonnay, nicknamed 'Chardonnay of the west' thanks to its western facing vineyards, goes through dry ice fermentation to preserve the primary aromas of the varietal. The result is a light & fresh take on the grape with a pronounced tropical fruit character on the nose & palate. A strong deer adorns the label of this one, a nod to the animal being a common pest of the vineyards during the growing season!
Di Colle in Colle 'Vittoria' - I believe this one was named after Giulio's niece, but memory is a little hazy on that! Either way, this is another rose wine, but made from Syrah instead of Pinot Noir. Lots of cherry & savory herbs adorned the palate, and reminded me very much of rosé from Provence.
Di Colle in Colle 'Drago Viola' - Now this wine had the group in a vice grip the entire trip! To be fair, we were having it at every meal, so that repetition allowed for continued reexamination of the wine. A 50/50 blend of Merlot & Syrah that sang with tart red fruit notes, the slightest kiss of cracked peppercorn & dried red flowers. Really gorgeous red that reminded me a of the touch the winemaker at Cantina Annesanti (another small batch producer in Umbria) has with their Merlot.
Di Colle in Colle 'Testa Bassa' - The final red in Giulio's portfolio is a big, brooding & firm red blend. Composed of Syrah, Merlot & Cabernet Sauvignon, this was the most modern of the Di Colle in Colle's wines. It coated the glass with its intense garnet hue and lingered even longer on the palate. The bull on the label of this wine is meant to represent the power of mother nature & its affects on the vineyards every vintage.
LOOKING AHEAD
When Giulio wrapped his tour with me in the vineyards, he did so with stories of his childhood and aspirations for the future. He wants to start growing more native varieties like Trasimeno Gamay, open a new bar concept on the estate run by his protégé, Luca, and maybe even start a family of his own to keep these ancestral lands humming long after he departs this world. I smiled because I'd found a kindred spirit when it came to ambition. I have no doubt that those aspirations will become a reality sooner than even he anticipates. Let's just hope those plans also include working with an importer, so we can share this juice with more people stateside!
A mentor of mine has raved about Umbria for years. After finally getting to experience the region myself with Di Colle in Colle as my anchor, I'm definitely subscribed to the hype train about it. Magical is really the only word that accurately describes my experience here. I'm eager to get back to Umbria for many reasons. Much can be attributed to my curiosity surrounding the wine & very rustic tourism scene, but also the new friends I made at Di Colle in Colle. This was the kind of experience that stays seared in your memory in ways that will haunt you. While there are more prominent areas like Tuscany that a traveler can find themselves immersed in, I'd highly recommend venturing on the path less traveled for an equally incredible immersion into Italy. The rise of agritourism in Umbria shouldn't draw comparisons to Tuscany because they both offer something spiritually different. Though I think I'll happily plant my flag in Umbria when recommending travel destinations in Italy to anyone in the future.
See you there next year?
Cheers,
The Certified Wino
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